Once upon a time, not so long ago, two Austrian ladies came to live in the North of England. The pet gripe of these two ladies was to bemoan the lack of decent sausages to be found in England. Such was their wailing and moaning about such sparcity of good sausages that some felt they were becoming British in their love of complaining about the state of things.
One evening these two ladies were at a party and were wittering on to all and sundry about their sausage woes. Until one gentlemen, encouraged perhaps by the drink, piped up to say “My dear ladies, there is nothing finer on this Earth than the British sausage!”. After much tittering, the Austrians decided to call out the gentlemen’s bloated patriotism and issued a wager, they would host an international sausage evening and challenged the man and all his friends to come to their garden with their fatty offal tubes to a sausage sizzle against the sausages of Austria. There, supremely confident in the superiority of the Austrian sausage they would prove that not one British sausage could beat their sausages in a taste test.
And so, came the night of the international sausage evening. Their fridge was filled to it’s very brim with specially ordered sausages that had asked friends and family to deliver to them all the way from Austria. The rain could not dampen their confidence, nor the sausages, because the Austrians had come to know the British summer and prepared gazebos to keep the rain off the grills erected in their garden.
Their smugness quickly turned to shock, then despair and finally to joy, for their burning desire to win the contest was trumped only by their love of excellent sausages, every British sausage they tasted was indeed superior to their sausages from back home. And everybody lived happily ever after.
All the best stories are true. I think many other Europeans coming to Britain are shocked and surprised by British food. If you visit a British supermarket [well perhaps unless you are lucky enough to go to a Booth’s] you will find aisle after aisle of over-processed, poor quality foods, that it seems the British have come to love. They may also moan about the ‘toast’ [the sliced “bread” in plastic bags only good for toast]. Yet outside the supermarkets, in the little back streets of British towns and cities, on market stalls and in small farm shops, you can still find fantastic butchers, bakers and fine cheeses, maintaining the tradition of producing basics like bread, cheese and indeed sausages to a decent standard using local ingredients from small producers as many had for centuries before them. Whilst the majority of the country spurns them to spend their cash in the bright lights of the supermarket for so ‘modern’ are they. It was from these little shops that the gentleman and his friends had acquired the winning sausages and certainly not from the supermarkets. For many Britons have acquired the local knowledge of where the good stuff is and we will go out of our way to visit these places when nearby and stock up, but they are not always easy to find. Such foodyism is largely a middle-class preserve, but such a class division does not exist in the rest of Europe to anything like this extent.
Travelling on ‘the continent’ is always a a food journey. There is good food seemingly everywhere, available to all. Even in the glitzy city centres and indeed the supermarkets, fine food can be purchased and enjoyed, even in the supermarkets! It seems to be only Britain and her cousins in the United States that have lost their food traditions to be slaves to intensive, industrialised food systems, where shelf-life and price is more important that giving people the simple pleasure of eating good food. It’s not really such a surprise that obesity is such a problem in the UK and the US. It is much harder to splash out on luxury food when it isn’t there, instead you have to binge on sugar and fat to satisfy cravings. It’s perhaps no coincidence that the US and the UK were the early adopters and champions of corporate capitalism, we don’t even understand what it is we’ve largely lost from our culture.
The supermarkets have been ruthless, they used to have in-store bakeries and butcher counters offering a comparable quality to the high street, but at a lower price, until they succeded in almost completely killling off local food shops. Then the supermarkets started lowering the quality, until today and most Britons don’t even notice how bad the cheese they buy from the supermarket is. It’s so easy to do, replace 10% of your favourite coffee blend with a cheaper alternative and 99% of people won’t notice. Then you take away another 10% and so over years people think they are drinking good coffee when it no longer is. This has happened to the entire British food culture. The British, in general are just too good at not wanting to make a fuss for their own good.
Note:
The International Sausage Evening was not a fair competition. The English gentlemen used local knowledge networks from across Britain to source the very best British sausages, whilst the Austrians sourced their sausages from their local shop in austria, very good sausages but perhaps not the very best to be found in Austria. Saying this above would have perhaps ruined the story.